The new Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Automatic Ceramica AKA PAM 508 was released as part of Panerai's 'Special Editions' collection unveiled at SIHH 2013. With its matte ceramic case, its P.9000 manufacture movement and the details inspired by the historic heritage of the brand, it represents a perfect synthesis of history, technology and watchmaking design. The Luminor 1950 case with the bridge protecting the winding crown, a characteristic Panerai feature, is made of brushed black ceramic, a material synthesized from zirconium oxide powder which ensures lightness and toughness as well as resistance to scratches, corrosive agents and high temperatures.The classic shape of the case 47 mm in diameter is created by a complex series of working and finishing operations which also give it a particularly uniform, smooth, matte appearance. The unidirectional rotating bezel enabling the length of the dive to be determined is made of the same matte ceramic as the case.
Price – USD 10,000.
A. Lange & Söhne Grand Lange 1 ‘Lumen’
The limited Grand Lange 1 'Lumen' offers enlightenment: a semi-transparent dial exposes the ingenious mechanism of the first luminescent outsize date display by A. Lange & Söhne.When it was first presented, it evoked excitement and kicked off a trend that soon found many imitators: the Lange outsize date. Together with the asymmetric dial, it elevated the Lange 1 to the status of an icon of classic design. However, the secret behind the complex mechanism responsible for this unprecedented date display format remained hidden beneath the solid-silver dial. Now, the Grand Lange 1 with the Latin attribute "Lumen” reveals this secret. The name of the timepiece, which comes in a limited edition of 200 watches in platinum cases, says it all. Parts of its dial consist of semi-transparent sapphire crystal. Only the outer ring and the surfaces of the displays for hours and minutes as well as small seconds are made of blackened silver. The sapphire crystal surfaces reveal the disc mechanism of the first outsize date that glows in the dark. Additionally, the time and the power reserve are also legible in the dark.
Price – USD 80,000.
De Bethune DB28 Skybridge Watch
An infinite expanse of the heavenly firmament stretches across its dreamlike face. Ancestral skills and the latest scientific breakthroughs meet and mingle under the impetus of David Zanetta and Denis Flageollet. They merge to make this timepiece a perfect summary of highly aesthetic ambition and peerless technical precision. Skybridge embodies the entire repertoire of the Manufacture De Bethune. While classically inspired in terms of its round shape, its 12 o’clock crown and its hunter-type back borrowed from pocket watches, the ultra-light mirror-polished titanium case of the DB28 with its distinctive floating lugs nonetheless proclaim the collection’s modern and indeed futuristic nature.The Skybridge has no seconds hand and no date. The DB2105 Movement has 236 parts in its construction, including twin barrels and 27 jewels supporting a six day power reserve.
Price – USD 106,000.
Cartier Rotonde Double Mystery Tourbillon
Imagine a watch equipped with a tourbillon that seems to be suspended in space. That was the challenge taken up by Cartier with its new movement; the 9454 MC Double Mystery Tourbillon certified by the Geneva Seal.The design team took inspiration from the "tricks” of Jean-Eugène Robert- Houdin, the father of modern magic, to create the illusion of levitation. Connoisseurs of watchmaking are aware that the mechanism of the tourbillon, in a vertical position, uses the rotation of the cage in a given time to shield the balance (the regulating organ) from the influence of the gravitational attraction of the Earth by smoothing out regularity errors (done by causing them to occupy every point on a circle in a given time). This fascinating device, set in the heart of the Rotonde Double Mystery Tourbillon, seems to defy the universal laws of gravity, giving the impression that it is floating unsupported in the void, and that its cage, rotating one turn in a minute and performing a complete rotation in its space in 5 minutes, has completely liberated itself from gravity.This 45mm masterpiece is strapped with black alligator skin with an adjustable 18k white gold buckle.
Price – USD 160,000.
Mont Blanc Nautique
Montblanc has two separate factories, or manufactures, as they’re called in the watch world. There’s a manufacture in Le Locle and another in Villeret, where the Montblanc Collection Villeret 1858 is being made according to ancient techniques.This is a 2012 model, which relfects the emergency power reserve on its inside. This is a patented Montblanc complication that gives the wearer an additional 10 hours of watch-running power on top of the Nautique's base 55-hour power reserve. The navigational watch Montblanc Régulateur Nautique is a construction weight of 120 kg, height 93 cm and a diameter of 56 cm. The basis of navigational watch is comprised of heavy granite base and carbon horizontal struts which secures the timepiece, even in a severe storm.
Price - USD 160,000.
IWC Ingenieur Constant Force Tourbillon
With the spectacular Ingenieur Constant-Force Tourbillon in its platinum and ceramic case, IWC still leads the field in the Constructors’ Championship of Haute Horlogerie. This precision machine’s patented constant-force mechanism is integrated in a tourbillon and ensures that the amplitude of the balance remains almost constant. It guarantees an extremely precise rate over a period of at least 48 hours.The newly developed 94800-calibre basic movement features two barrels that provide the energy for the higher torque required to drive the constant-force tourbillon. It also provides the moon phase module with the necessary power. The double moon display depicts the surface of the earth’s only natural satellite so realistically that even tiny craters can be recognized.The watch is 46mm in diameter constructed with a hand wound mechanical movement and 96 hour power reserve.
Price – USD 290,000
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon 3 Jubilee
It was an invention that led to the first Jaeger-LeCoultre workshop. Since 1833, the Manufacture has not only fostered this heritage of invention, creativity and technical skill together under one roof but also constantly set out in search of innovation.This new Grand Complication watch with an aesthetic inspired by the pocket-watches of the 19th century is the third Jaeger-LeCoultre Grand Complication model to be equipped with a Gyrotourbillon, but the first to be equipped with a Flying Gyrotourbillon, seeming to float in a vacuum in a state of total weightlessness. Fitted with a new spherical balance-spring, it is also equipped with a chronograph with an instantaneous digital display activated by a monopusher. This timepiece with exceptional finishes reflects the Manufacture's spirit of inventiveness and leadership in the field of Grand Complications.A 48 hour Power Reserve comprising of 592 parts and two barrels, the instrument is decorated with 92 jewels and a mechanical manually-wound movement, Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 176.
Price – USD 400,000.
Greubel Forsey Double Balancier 35 Degrees
Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey have been working together for nearly 20 years in a relationship founded on their shared technical creativity and quest for perfection.The Double Balancier 35° features two inclined fixed-oscillators coupled with a spherical differential, which provides the average of their rates to the gear train and time display. Between the two visible inclined balances, small seconds at 7 o’clock displays the running instantaneous average of the two regulators, while a 72-hour power reserve indicator at 2 o’clock keeps track of the optimal power available from the two co-axial, fast-rotating mainspring barrels.The 35° inclination of the balances allows for larger diameter balance wheels (better inertia /more stable timekeeping) in a 43.5mm case.The Double Balancier 35° is a unique edition of six pieces in 18k white gold.
Price – USD 500,000.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Titanium
The Royal Oak Offshore was born in 1993 as a sportier extension of the model designed two decades earlier by watch designing icon Gérald Genta.The watch has a 44mm titanium, black ceramic bezel, crown and chrono pushpieces. Inside is the 648-part manufacture caliber 2885 with minute repeater, chronograph and perpetual calendar functions.The Grande Complication movement features hand-finished cut-out parts (polished bevels, beadblasted, matt surface underneath) and hand-finished bridges (rounded-off and polished bevels, satin-brushed flanks, circular-grained recesses). To reveal the exceptional nature of this model, the parts composing this exceptional art are partially visible through the transparent sapphire dial and by a fitted exhibition back.This model with its minute repeater, split-second chronograph and perpetual calendar complications is the first Royal Oak Offshore to be designated as a grande complication. Just three pieces will be made which is not surprising for such a highly complicated watch.
Price – USD 750,000
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Quatuor
In 2005, Roger Dubuis launched Excalibur, a line that has written some of the most beautiful pages in the history of horology. Its dynamic forms, its sharp angles and the sheer power of its designs have reshaped Fine Watchmaking. In 2013, the brand honours this iconic collection with some exceptional creations inspired by the world of the Warrior, the legendary figure of a time when courage and honour were the supreme values.Called the Quatuor and introduced in the company’s Excalibur case, the movement’s balances are paired, two and two, and positioned at 90 degree angles to one another, linked by differentials. Each balance operates at 4 Hz, adding up to 16 oscillations per second. By distributing the effects of gravity across the four balances, these effects are negated, thus resulting in a more consistent timekeeping rate.This revolutionary movement is housed inside a thick 48-millimeter gold case and only eight such pieces have been made.
Price – USD 1.08 Million
Richard Mille Tourbillon RM 56-01Sapphire Crystal
Respected for its use of latest technologies and artistic outlooks, Richard Mille watches are designed with values of comfort, luxury and top of the line quality.Out of the watches presented at the SIHH 2013, our favorite is the transparent Tourbillon RM 56-01. Complete clarity in the literal sense, this timepiece has been produced in a limited edition of only 5 such instruments. Its sapphire crystal baseplate allows a generous amount of light penetration into the caliber, resulting in unbeatable visuals. It takes 40 days round the clock to machine one case, that to with the use of a special CNC machine. The watch is immune to temperature variations, ensuring excellent stability and chronometric performance. The strap is made of Aerospace nanotechnology which gives it the element of unequalled transparency and strength with a touch of silk like lightness. Water resistant up to 30 meters.
Price – USD 1.65 million
Parmigiani Toric Quaestor Labyrinthe
The Parmigiani Fleurier story, since its beginnings in 1996, has been built on a powerful conviction: restoring the value of Swiss watchmaking art as heritage, by making it part of an ongoing tradition of manufacturing expertise.Under its subtle shades of jade green, the Toric Quaestor Labyrinthe contains a minute repeater which uses several special design features to produce an exceptionally pure melody.Firstly, the movement is integrated into the case with greater stability thanks to an additional fixing point. Located just below the chime, a small piece links the pawl of the chime to the case, thereby ensuring that it is perfectly fixed, allowing the sound to reverberate without any interference from the vibrations.Secondly, this movement has a flywheel, which is a major innovation. Apart from ensuring a constant supply of energy to the spring, this device allows the minute repeater to operate without any mechanical humming. While previous devices functioned with the jerks of a toothed wheel, the flywheel ensures total mechanical silence, leaving only the sound of the melodious chime each time it is struck.Produced in a limited edition of 5 pieces, this Parmigiani contains a double knurled bezel and sapphire crystal back.
Price – Undisclosed
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